On Monday 18th, I travelled up to London from Moreton in Dorset by train. I enjoyed the 2 and half hour trip immensely. The countryside is just so beautiful and it was a glorious day. I saw so many farmers in the fields, and so much is in flower it was a joy to see as we sped along. I stayed overnight with my friend Anne who has taken a flat in London in St Catherine Docks area. This is right beside the Tower bridge and across the road from The Tower of London. At her front door is City Quay with many pleasure boats and yachts moored in the basin. They have to use a lock to enter and leave as the height of the water in the Thames differs from that in the quays by up to 15metres at times. There were so many lovely restaurants around there I had a hard time choosing where I would have dinner that night – without even having to leave the Docks precinct.
We had an early start as the taxi collected us at 4.15 am to take us to Heathrow terminal 5. The city looks quite different at that hour let me assure you. The “Executive Lounge” at British Airways has a wonderful view over the airport and it was lovely to watch dawn break from there. The food and facilities were not a patch on Qantas though and the 3 and a half hour flight was pretty ordinary. The cabin crew were old and grumpy, with the attitude that we should count ourselves lucky to have them. Service was almost non-existent which was such a disappointment as I expected British Airways to be top class.
It is very much a cash economy in Turkey. No-one will accept a card for anything. I got the clue at the airport. You have to purchase a visa, they accept only US dollars or Euro and a sign on the front of the window of each collection booth says that “No receipt will be issued. Photocopy your passport as your receipt if you need one.” I found the sight of the masses of old, badly maintained, buildings quite depressing as we drove in to from the airport. I was fascinated though by the hanging wall panels of flowers that were on the sides of the concrete walls along the side of the motorways. It almost looked like they had impregnated carpets with seeds and hung them there to germinate and flower. Looked fantastic, and such a myriad of colours and patterns – so much nicer than the drab concrete walls.
The first thing I did on arriving was to go to the little shop across the road and buy a 5 litre bottle of water and two 400ml bottles of it. We have been told not to drink the water or even use it to clean our teeth, so I wanted to be well prepared. Next, I headed down to the Turkish spa and baths situated in the basement of the hotel for a massage as soon as I could to ease the tension in my back, right leg and shoulder/arm. Whilst it was pleasant, it did not really help.
Each night we had an hour (or more) rehearsal for the items we were required to sing at both the Dawn Service at Gallipoli and later at Lone Pine. The rest of the party had flown in earlier in the day from Australia. There are 36 of us in all – including a couple of young accompanists and the leader Colin Slater OAM. After our rehearsal the first night we all went to a typical Turkish restaurant for a meal. LOTS of selection and several courses, and everyone had a great time.
We woke Wednesday to a wet windy and very cold day. After a buffet breakfast we boarded our coach (that has www.anzachouse.com on the side of it so it is easy for us to find) and headed off to the “blue mosque” and then the Topkapi Palace Museum. They are quite lovely to see, but with the rain and cold wind it was a challenge with my injured arm to deal with the umbrella, camera case, bag (with water etc) try to take photo’s and remove shoes when requested. We had lunch at a Turkish Café. I got caught when I tried to leave as someone had spilt something on the stairs, and they would not let me down until they had cleaned it. When I came out to the meeting place, the tour had gone without me. They had already left another couple behind who were not at the meeting place at the designated time, so I just got a taxi and asked to go back to the hotel. He took me to the wrong one. I told him that, but he insisted it was the correct one! In the end he ordered me out. I went in to the Hotel, which has a similar name to the one we were staying in, and they directed me to the correct one, which was only a few blocks away so I was able to walk. I spent the afternoon on the internet so I was happy enough.
Thursday was a beautiful bright sunny day – with a ‘stiff breeze’. I did a cruise on the Bosphorus, which was really lovely, and most interesting as well. I didn’t realise that the bridges here link the continents of Europe and Asia. There were some VERY palatial homes plus several Palaces or former Palaces. Friday we left Istanbul, which was a feat in itself. When there are as many people living in one city as live in the entire continent of Australia, it goes on forever, and there is always a lot of traffic on the road. We had an early start so missed much of it. We arrived at Canakkale (pronounced Chanak karlee) via the Gallopoli Peninsula. When we stopped for lunch – at a wonderful seaside restaurant at Eceabat- the Turkish media were waiting for us. They recorded an interview with Colin Slater OAM – our leader- and got us to sing the Turkish anthem for them, which they loved and applauded – and recorded and it seems it was broadcast nation wide that night. We visited the Beach cemetery where two of our members (Keith and Dawn Fleet) each have a family member buried and co-incidentally they were best mates and in the very first Duntroon intake, so we had a little ceremony for each of them. Then we went on to Anzac Cove where a media contingent from Channels 7 and 9 were waiting for us. We had to sing for them and they interviewed Colin and the Fleets and some individuals. I was interviewed by Channel 7, but it seems it has not been used. We then visited both the Anzac Cove dawn service site and Lone Pine to familiarise ourselves with them. It was a very emotional day and many of us took a few minutes to have a quiet reflection on it all and actually being there. The practice that night seemed to take on more significance for all of us as a result of the tour.
When I eventually got back to my room and accessed my emails that night there was one there from my Cousin, Anne Mills, telling me of two cousins of her Mums (Vera Woodward nee Mazlin) who were killed in the Gallipoli campaign. Leslie Mazlin is buried in the Beach Cemetery where we spent some time earlier that day. I actually recollect seeing the name Mazlin and wondering if it was any relation. It is a shame I had not known before I went there. His brother Norman is buried at Embarked Pier Cemetery, which we drove past but did not stop at. However had we known the guide would have stopped as we were told they would stop at any cemeteries where any of us had a connection. Unfortunately we did not have time to go back in the next couple of days.
The next morning we visited more of the battlefields and cemeteries and had time to wander along the beach at Anzac Cove. THAT was an unreal experience. When you see the rocky foreshore, you certainly feel for anyone who had to try to keep their footing while wading ashore – let alone being weighed down by all the kit AND being shot at! And the prospect of even attempting to scale the cliffs is just too horrific to contemplate. We also spent time at the Nek and Chunuk Bear where there is a memorial to the New Zealanders. Every time we stopped and got out of the bus, you could see what is left of the trenches. Some have obviously been restored, but even where they haven’t been, it is obvious what they were.
All afternoon was spent in sound checks and rehearsals, firstly at Lone Pine, and later at the Dawn Service site near Anzac cove. We had been issued with our photographic ID cards the night before plus bright red fleecy lined water resistant coats supplied by the defence department, and we needed them that day. It was SO cold. The breeze was a stiff one with a huge wind-chill factor. We all had our gloves, scarves and coats on and for the few seconds when the wind would drop it was almost pleasant sitting there in the sun watching it all, and playing our part as required. But then the wind would blast you again and you just wanted it all to be over so you could get back into the warm bus. The practice sessions took forever. Some of the people ‘standing in’ at the rehearsals for the dignitaries took their opportunity at the microphone to make a speech. Some of them had absolutely no relevance to the situation at hand. One person (who shall remain nameless) when she got up for the 4th time to represent the Minister instead of just saying “I am etc” then sitting down again as she did the 3 previous times, took it upon herself (as the “Minister) to publically recognise and thank all the staff of his Department for their untiring efforts to bring this to fruition. We all gave resounding applause for that one. We did not get finished at Anzac Cove until after 7.30pm, although it is still quite light at that hour. We were feeling chilled to the bone by then, and all decided we would have to add a couple of extra layers for the Dawn Service. We were so late getting back to our hotel that practice that night was cancelled. In any case we had sung most of the songs during the day either on the bus ride there or during the rehearsals.
We did a short tour on Sunday morning, to the legendary city of Troy, which was most interesting. We then, had a free afternoon, before our final rehearsal. After dinner, most of us tried to grab a few hours sleep before leaving for the site. I also went off to visit a Turkish Bath for Women, in the hope of having a great massage on my right shoulder. It turned out to be very much a place for the locals. The manager of the Hotel where we were staying rang and organised it for me, and when I first went and could get no-one to understand he came back and spoke to the people running it and supposedly explained what I needed. Either they did not heed his explanation or he did not explain it well enough because I did not get what I was expecting. I won’t say more (just leave it to your imagination!) except it is one of those experiences that once had – you never need to repeat!!!!
Our bus left at 11.30pm and was on the midnight ferry to Eceabat. I had taken the poems “Beneath the Ol’ Slouch Hat” by Jim Egan and “Remember the Horses too” by Kim Eitel with me, and read them in the bus going up there. Everyone on the bus was very moved by them, and said it set the tone for what we were going to do. We were on site by about 1am. We were lucky, as the Defence Dept had organised for us to be allowed close to the site, and we were allowed to stay there on the bus until about 3am, before moving up to our positions. We only had about 300 m walk, as opposed to the several kilometres most attendees had to walk. There was also strict security in place and everyone had to be screened. Weapons, opened bottles of water, large back packs, alcohol, intoxicated people and several other things were all prohibited. The Turkish Army was everywhere, taking their security role very seriously. The first thing we had to do on arriving was to dry the seats as they were wet with dew. Most had brought something to sit on. I had been warned by Lucille Savina who went a couple of years ago, so took a newspaper to cut the chill coming through the seat, and a cushion I had made up for the event using the bag I usually carry my court shoes in and my pyjama pants.
For those of you who saw the broadcast and could hear us but not see us, we were to the left of the main dais, just behind the band, but at the top of the stands. We had a great view of it all, but we were providing the windbreak for the others in the stand. It was SO cold. (I never did hear the official temperature, but everyone we met who has been there before assured us it was the coldest ever.) We were able to sit and let the atmosphere seep into us. We could hear the sounds of the waves lapping on the shore, which was just below us on our left. They had been showing a series of documentaries on the big screens that were set up on either side, all night. Just before the service commenced they showed snippets of the dawn parades that had occurred in the major centres in Australia earlier that day. The cold seeped into our very bones as we sat there. I had 5 layers on top and bottom, and feel I know how the people who go to the Antarctic feel. (It took SO long to go to the toilet it almost put you off wanting to go!) I took the opportunity to seek out the “loo’ before it started. There was a huge line of portable ‘loo’s’ with a long line at each one. Luckily, we were able to access those provided for the participants, where the line was not nearly so long. There were lots of food stalls, and hawkers selling “T” shirts and other memorabilia, lining the road and being well patronised – especially by people who needed an extra layer to keep warm and those looking for a warm drink,
Then, just when we were able to make out the outline of the hills, it was time, and the service began. We sang the hymn (23rd Psalm) then the Turkish, Australian and New Zealand anthems. I watch the broadcast of the Dawn Service every year, and am always moved by it. Being there, and being part of it was just such an honour, and a very emotional experience. There is just a special air about the place. Many people commented that they felt the spirits of some of the boys were there, watching over proceedings – including several of the servicemen and dignitaries. That is exactly how I felt too. We all also felt that, with being so cold through it all, we better appreciated just what those poor souls had to endure in 1915.
Afterwards we returned to the bus and moved up to Lone Pine, where again we only had a short walk to our positions. We had a boxed breakfast during the time on the bus, and tried to get the feeling back into our fingers and toes. At Lone Pine we performed 3 items before the main event commenced. We sang ‘Let there be Peace on Earth’, ‘Imagine’ and then ‘Wings.’ We then sang ‘I am Australian’ with the RAAF band, just before it commenced. During this lead up time, the Master of ceremonies asked all veterans from any country to stand, and then asked us all to applaud them for their efforts. There were a lot of Turkish veterans in the VIP section, and they were included and waved a lot when they heard the applause. (I have to tell you that when he said this at the first rehearsal there was a splattering of applause and he said “What a paltry response for people you owe so much to”. So at the second rehearsal we made a much better effort and he said “that’s more like it” before going on with the rehearsal.) There was a small group of current Turkish servicemen lined up beside the Turkish Flag for the entire ceremony. Later, at their memorial service, (they have one following ours, to honour the 57th Regiment who died to a man – including cook and commanding officer- defending the site until reinforcements could arrive, and later the Kiwi’s have theirs at Chunuk Bear) there would be a similar group of Aussie servicemen. During the Service we sang the hymn ‘Abide with Me’, then the Turkish and Australian Anthems. I had arranged to lay wreaths in honour of Les and Norm Mazlin who are buried there as I mentioned above and also for Jimmy Naughton who died as a result of wounds sustained there, and whose great niece is a friend of mine in QCWA. We were able to do this as part of the ceremony at the end when they allow private people to lay wreaths. THIS was a HUGE honour for me, to be able to do this and honour those men in this small way. After the service, as people were leaving we sang, ‘I still call Australia home’ and ‘Give me a home amongst the gum trees.’ These got a great response from the crowd and dignitaries alike, many of whom came over to take our photo and/or thank us.
We then piled back into the bus and went back to the same beachfront restaurant at Eceabat we had visited previously, for a late lunch. The road is actually one way past the sites, and I don’t know how our guide managed it, but we followed an ambulance who was following a police car the wrong way down the one way road, which saved us going miles around and meant we got to the restaurant faster. I had just arrived when Brad Coleman, who I managed property for about 15 years came up to me. He is serving in Afghanistan again, and had a few days leave so had arranged to spend it in Turkey with his partner. They had been at the ceremony at Lone Pine and he said he could not believe his ears when they announced that “Meg Trimble” would be laying the next wreath. Then to find me at the same place for lunch, was almost too much. We had a great old chat and he said how much he had enjoyed the services and he thought our singing was wonderful and added to the atmosphere. Coming from a currently serving veteran that made us all feel even more proud.
We were all in pretty high spirits through lunch, but once we returned to our Hotel we all headed for bed for a few hours. Dinner that night was a very subdued affair as the full impact as all we had experienced, seen and done in the last few days hit home I think. This has been a highlight of my life, and I urge anyone who gets the chance to come to the ceremony – to do it. To actually be part of it, was just so special. I think the time we spent there in the 2 days leading up to it helped us to more fully appreciate just what these men did, and what a debt this country owes them.
I can’t finish off without paying tribute to the Turkish Army and the People. They toil for weeks getting the site set up, and work round the clock for the last 36 or so hours, to ensure it all runs smoothly and everything and everyone is looked after properly. Without them, this marvellous tribute would not be possible. There is also an army of Aussie volunteers who come each year at their own expense, like we do, and ensure everyone goes where they should, and then clean up after them when it is all over.
The Hotel in Istanbul had been right in the centre of all the action, on a very narrow street, but at least the bus could make it to our front door. We had breakfast there but all other meals elsewhere. They had a huge array of different foods in the buffet for breakfast but I struggled to find anything I could eat. In the end I went for cereal and milk with a piece of bread as being the least of the bad choice options available, and sometimes a cup of weak coffee. They had a great and well stocked bar, most of the staff spoke reasonable English, and on the odd occasion they didn’t comprehend they would call a colleague who did.
The one in Canakkale had a wonderful position, right alongside the wharf, but the bus could not get to the door and we always had a 200m walk to it. It had supposedly been ‘partially refurbished’ since they had been there the year before. The people on the tour christened it “Fawlty Towers” as so much didn’t work – or not properly -and few of the staff spoke any English, so when you ordered a drink it was a nervous wait to see how long it took, what you got or even if you got anything at all. Their breakfast table was not as well stocked as the Istanbul hotel, so I had less choice and settled for cereal and milk and sometimes a tomato sandwich. Actually food has been a big problem for me. Almost all their dishes have carrot or mint or mushrooms – which are 3 of the ones that cause me most problems. Most days there is nothing on my ‘allowed freely list’ so I am eating from my “can tolerate a couple of times a week list” – but it is not good for me when I eat it every day. Having said that there have been a couple of memorable meals where I have been able to enjoy the typical Turkish fare and I have enjoyed them immensely. I have to say though that their “Sea Bass” of which they are so proud, are small and full of bones and not a patch for taste on any of our reef fish!
As I mentioned before we have to purchase all drinking water and use it to brush teeth etc. It only costs 2 Turkish lire for a 5 litre bottle at the shop over the road from the Istanbul Hotel, yet a 500ml bottle is 1.75lire. Buying it in restaurants (and if you want to drink water you have to buy it EVERYWHERE) it can cost as much as 4lire for a 500ml bottle, and 6lire for the 1.5litre bottle. That’s it till next time. This last week has just been SO special for me, I hope that comes through to you.